Models
No, not the ones in magazines or on TV, the ones you just sent to the lab. Did they look as good as they could have?
It has been said that you can tell the quality of a dentists work [operative or otherwise] by the quality of his models. I know that lab work isn't the shining star in your life, because if it were you would be runing a lab instead of a dental office. Are you doing everything you can to make it easier on your self? Here is how I [try to] keep my lab work looking its best.
1 - Take Two Impressions. I don't care if it's diagnostic casts or a final impression. If my patients expect 2, and I screw the first one up, then I don't look bad. If the first one's good, the second might be great.
2 - Use the vacu-mixer. You can't possibly vibrate ALL of the bubbles out of the stone, this machine can. Your models will never look better.
3 - Superglue, and a couple of coat hangers. Well... You'll probably want a superglue accelerator too. This product, called "zip kicker" makes the superglue harden real quick. It is sold through dental supply stores with wires pre-bent in the shape of an N. After you have mounted your maxillary cast, articulate the mandibular cast [with or without a bite registration] and use the wires and superglue to hold them together as you mount the mandibular cast.
4 - Sandpaper. Most people know that this is the best way to smooth out the final plaster on mounted models.
5 - Floor wax. Yup. I learned this at a lab. One coat on the entire model [even occlusally], then 2-3 more coats on the rest [buccal, lingual, and the plaster]. Instant presentation quality.
That's my procedure for models. No, I don't use boxing wax to create a base. If I need more of a base, then I will add more stone later.
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